Here in New Mexico we take our green chili seriously. We love it. We talk about it endlessly, we await each new harvest with great anticipation, and then we do what we do, in our own special way when it's time to bring it home. First, there is choosing the temperature. This process requires conferring with the local roaster, reading recent articles about the heat of this year's crop, then deciding which way to go. This year we got Hot, which, we were told, is really Medium Hot. Second, there is the roasting. This requires waiting in line, usually in sweltering heat, while a sweaty roaster person dumps the chili in the roaster and begins the process. They adjust the flames a few times, monitor the progress of the roast, and when it's just right, they dump it into a plastic garbage bag they've put into a box, then twist the top of the bag shut, then hand it to you to take home and do with it what you wish. Third, and this is where most of the variations occur, the...